After an eight-month journey cycling through various countries, Mark, 50, and Ellie, 45, have finally reached Vietnam. The couple describes the country as feeling like home due to its karaoke parties, affordable guesthouses, and the kindness of strangers.
They started their global cycling adventure in February from their hometown of Tramore. Their route took them through Europe, Turkey, and the deserts of Central Asia. This journey was inspired by Dervla Murphy, an Irishwoman who cycled from Ireland to India in 1965.
Mark considers cycling around the world as the best way to experience life fully. Their goal is not to visit every country but to explore different landscapes and cultures.
Mark and Ellie at the Mong Cai border gate in northern Vietnam. Photo courtesy of Mark and Ellie
To prepare for their trip, they worked long hours to save up. They used the Mapy navigation app to plan flexible routes, adjusting their pace depending on the terrain. In Vietnam, they cycled about 32 km a day during storms, while in Kazakhstan, they managed up to 165 km on flat roads.
Vietnam has been relatively affordable for them, with a decent guesthouse costing around VND300,000 (US$11) per night. Mark notes that in Europe, they would pay ten times more for a guesthouse of much lower quality.
At a homestay on Cai Chien Island in northern Vietnam, they woke up at 9 a.m. to find a full karaoke party already in progress. Elderly men sang all morning, some in tune, others not, but everyone had energy. They were invited to sing “Little Boxes,” and received polite applause, even though they knew they hadn’t been loud enough.
Leaving the parties behind, they continued down the coast, enjoying the cool sea breezes and the warmth of rural hospitality. Mark believes that cycling allows them to see the everyday life of Vietnamese people, something that package tours cannot offer. They admired the gardens, rice fields, and the way people balanced work with family time, which reminded them of Ireland.
In small towns, children waved, and once, two boys chased them on motorbikes just to offer them some sugarcane juice. Mark says these moments make tough days feel lighter. The kindness of Vietnamese people touches their hearts every day.
Mark and Ellie take a photo with a lady selling banh mi on the street in Vietnam. Photo courtesy of Mark and Ellie
They were moved by the “Vietnamese mothers” they met—small women with big hearts who looked out for strangers. One scolded Mark for wearing shorts in the sun, another gave them rain ponchos, and a pho shop owner moved him to a cooler seat. None of them knew the couple, but all treated them like friends.
Mark believes this comes from genuine concern, a deep-rooted part of Vietnamese warmth and hospitality. He recalls reading blogs that dismissed the country as boring and skippable. “I’m so glad I ignored those opinions,” he says after nearly a month in the country.
The couple’s time in Vietnam has been smooth, apart from Typhoon Bualoi, which affected parts of Asia. Their only real challenge was that the food was too good, sometimes making them eat too much and barely able to cycle.
They have loved dishes like pho, banh xeo (crispy pancakes), and seafood fried rice, although some dipping sauces “tasted like sugar.” Ellie has enjoyed Vietnamese coffee, while Mark drank it mainly for energy. Sometimes, after a cup, they’d race each other down a road, excited to see rice fields, coconut trees, and banana plants—unfamiliar sights in Ireland.
Their three-month visa makes Vietnam a good place to rest after eight months on the road. Simple gestures, such as a thumbs-up or a farmer’s wave, often lift their spirits. “The optimism and hospitality here are truly healing,” Mark says.
Next, they’ll visit Tuy Hoa City in central Vietnam and stay with a friend for a few weeks. Mark hopes to add some Vietnamese to the few words he knows, like “thank you,” “river,” and “bridge.”
Calling Vietnam a “cyclist’s paradise” for its scenery, food, and low costs, he ranks it among their top three destinations and recommends it to other riders. From here, they will continue through Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia before flying to Canada in early 2026. They plan to cycle across the U.S. and return to Ireland by year end after a 23-country journey.